Esfahan Tiles

There are many emotions on this trip I think I can cope with and overcome; loneliness, exhaustion and boredom. But I have realised over the last couple of weeks I’m not very good with helplessness. Being a typical man in that I like to be in control, I like to be responsible for my own actions, to reap the benefits and suffer the consequences. But being helpless takes away all my ability to be in control of certain situations and instead makes me rely on other people and situations out of my sphere of influence.

The last couple of weeks have been totally different to the numerous weeks before. Iran is such a big country it was going to be impossible to cycle all the bits we wanted to visit. Because of this and the need for time to make visa applications the last couple of weeks have been spent travelling through central Iran by bus. Visiting Esfahan for the first time was a mesmerizing experience which totally bowled me over. The aqua marine blue tiles and huge domes created an urban landscape quite like that I have ever visited before. I am just interested to see the underground system, when it is finished, which is reputed will be made totally from these blue tiles. The old capital of Persia was such a welcome change to the urban sprawl of Tehran. Tehran struck me as a city built in a hurry, developed really only in the last 40 years with little regard for real human interaction and living. Esfahan on the otherhand was a city built over hundreds of years, developed and re-developed into an urban space in which the human was at the centre of its functionality (enough of all that geography).

Following two days in Esfahan we headed for Shiraz and the home of the Hasani family. Mohammed a keen cyclist welcomed us with open arms into his house and his family of parents four brothers and two sisters. Staying with such a relaxed family was a welcome restbite from the confined tent or box like hotel. Each Hassani has a smile as broad as a mile and all had a different interest which they wanted to discuss. I met my match in Hassan, a geographical facts prodigy, his atlas has been so heavily used it was in pieces, but it was still a source of information and conversation. Living which such a friendly, non-assuming family who let us get on with what we needed to do allowed me to relax quite unlike anytime in the last two months and inevitably it meant I came roiund to thinking of my own family. Its strange even at your most happy and contented your mind drifts off to when it was last so relaxed.

I’ve missed my bike and the simplicity of cycling from place to place and am raring to get going through the desert of 45 C, give it 20 minutes and I’m sure I’ll have had my fill.

A mouthful of Sanjak (Robb Maciag)

Kashan

Skyward

Bananas in Pyjamas (Ania Maciag)